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#1 (permalink) |
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www.prowriststraps.com
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I saw a GM dealer advertising this over the weekend and makes me wonder how bad the auto industry is hurting overall.
I'm tempted to go buy a new car and use a student loan to pay for it. I probably don't qualify for the 0% but I'm sure my dad does. How bad of an idea is this? Sounds too good to be tru to me. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Gold Member
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6 years is a long time but at 0% interest who cares. You're literally paying 1/72 of whatever price you agree to, after the downpayment, every month. That kicks serious ass.
And they certainly don't mind if you want to do a 36, 48 or 60 month deal if you prefer.
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#8 (permalink) |
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Chairman of the board
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I agree, it's free money so why not go 6 years? Like you said GM is desperate and I think the other US automakers will be right behind them by summer's end.
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#9 (permalink) | ||
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www.prowriststraps.com
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Quote:
Well a Duramax is a $50+K truck while I'd be looking in the $20K range. Quote:
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#10 (permalink) |
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Connoisseur of Women
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Going 72 months at 0% will give you the lowest payments....but you can always add more to increase the monthly payment.
If the prices have not increased.....this is a good deal. Less the fact that cars depreciate as soon as it is driven off the lot. I have seen the advertisements for the last 2wks. I say go for it....but don't over do it despite the 0% deal. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Gold Member
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I don't know how savvy u are with car bargaining... but u can get the invoice price from edmunds.com and a good deal should leave you paying a couple hundred below invoice for american, even with the no interest. And don't settle for that whole u can only get the color/options on the lot crap. Get the exact car u want at the exact price u are willing to pay.
I like to use 3 dealerships... I go to the first one and spend a couple hours getting the best deal I can. Go to the second with my best offer and the exact car i want, tell him i want his bottom line best deal. If its worse, tell him I already got a better offer... beat it. Then go to a third, tell him the best offer I got and ask him to beat it. If he can, I call the first guy and give him the option to match since I spent so much time with him. If he can't beat the offer from the 1st or 2nd guy, I know I already have a deal I can be proud of and buy from whoever offered it.
__________________
"All you can do is stand and, worst thing you can do is panic. Use it to your advantage, avoid insanity manage. To conquer... Every obstacle, make impossible possible. Even when winning's illogical, losing's still far from optional." - T.I. "No Matter What" |
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#12 (permalink) | ||
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Searching
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A guy I work with took that deal on a Ford last year. It was available the year before, too. He was gonna pay cash on a Ranger so he took the money he would have spent & invested it.
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#15 (permalink) |
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Scumbag Banker
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Technically, yes you would be receiving 0% financing on the primary loan on the car....but you are accumulating interest at a student loan rate - depending on the origination of the loan (pre-June or Post-June '08) and the index and margin, it might be the equivalent of financing at 7 - 9% which is shit. On top of the fact, if you are not making interest payments on the student loans, then that is adding back to the outstanding balance, and then interest in continously calculated upon the new balance....
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#16 (permalink) | |
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www.prowriststraps.com
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Quote:
I was thinking that somehting in the $18K price range would be good and I have about $4k I can put as a down payment which leaves abour $14K spread over 72 months or about $200/month which I cna make on a weekend. So it might be possible to do it without taking out a student loan. I'll probably end up taking that $4k and getting something like a used civic. |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Retired
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That's probably the smartest thing economically speaking. I can't find it but someone actually did an article explaining buying a GOOD used car in the 4-8K range and driving it until it dies saves a lot more money in the long run then buying a new car in the 20K range.
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